Far From Home Never Felt So Close

Unless you've been living under a rock (or perhaps an affluent suburb in the U.S. and don't pay attention to "news" outside of MTV), you've for sure heard of the earthquake that hit Chengdu, China recently.

This natural disaster struck just days after a cyclone ripped through Myanmar. The big difference between these two tragedies for me, as much as I hate to admit it, is the fact that I care a whole lot more about the tragedy affecting China.

It was eye opening to realize this -- and it was immediately apparent to me -- I care more simply because I have been to China and can easily find Chengdu on a map. We met people that were traveling there. And what's more, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe my sister actually got routed through Chengdu on her way to Beijing.

I think realizing this is a good lesson for me (and for everyone in this world). It's good to travel. It's good to interact with other cultures. It's good to step outside your backyard and shake hands with someone that speaks a different language. It's not only fun, but it creates more empathy in this world, and I'm pretty sure that's one thing we don't have enough of.

China, Our Travels

Most Americans, myself included, are not up to par on Chinese geography. Heck, most Americans would fail a 50 state test. So that's why I've put together a Google Map (have I mentioned before how much I love Google?) of our trip, and highlighted the various modes of transportation in different colors.

And speaking of modes of transportation, they were as diverse as the scenery. We traveled by:

• Airplane
• Train
• Bus
• Mini bus
• Subway
• Taxi
• Boat
• Personal car (it was a new Fiat)
• Bicycle
• Pseudo bicycle rickshaw
• Foot
• Zipline
  

Our path of travel, as it may not be apparent on the map:

• Flew into Beijing
• Overnight train to Xi'an
• Flight to Guilin
• Boat to Yangshuo
• Bus back to Guilin
• Flight back to Beijing
  

View Larger Map

China, The People

Mountains can be beautiful, lakes serene, and bustling cities energizing, but it seems time and time again that no matter where you travel, or what you encounter, it's the people that make the trip (and life) memorable.

So it shouldn't be surprising that the people we met throughout our trip fill a large portion of my memory. I'm going to continue with the list theme and bring you, in no particular order, the people that left the greatest mark:

• My sis -- Not too many people can travel with a sibling for 2 weeks straight. I think it's pretty cool.
• Xian, my sister's friend -- Xian was our official Chinese Lifestyle Consultant, Food Connoisseur, Tour Guide, and Translator. Our trip was a vacation when she was around. She walked, I followed. She ordered food, I ate. She hailed a cab, I got in. It was so easy and fun. Thanks sooo much Xian! (not that you'll see this, since China blocks Blogger, but maybe my sister can tell you about this post!)
  
• Master Director Wei -- He ran the Yangshuo Culture House, taught Jen and I Chinese calligraphy, brush painting, and taichi. He personally met us in town and got us a driver to his house. He hooked us up with 2nd row tickets to the most popular show in town. His mom(?) cooked us the most amazing meals. He's making a difference for all the lucky travelers that knock on his door.
• Chinese tourists -- What's with the peace sign anyway?
• Chinese people that like to photograph white people -- Jen and I couldn't figure it out. Over and over again, people would come up and pose with us as their friend took a photo with their cameraphone. Or, they would try to be sneaky about it and snap our photo in a semi-covert fashion.
• Chinese babies -- my friend Diana's said it before, and now I believe her. Chinese babies just might be the cutest babies out there. I'm guessing it's the adorable round faces and chubby cheeks. And speaking of chubby cheeks, all toddlers still undergoing potty training would wear these little pants with a crack down the backside, so their butts would be hanging out. It was so rediculously funny and cute -- definitely one of the highlights of our trip.
• Trinket / Beverage Sellers -- You can't go to any tourist location in China without getting attacked by a gaggle of trinket and/or beverage sellers. Who knew I could get a beer on The Great Wall?
• Old man with tangerines -- We were hiking past him and for no reason but his pure goodwill he shared his bag of fresh tangerines with us
• Seven Stars Park Cave Guide -- Our tour guide was super nice, peppy, spoke English very well, and always made a point to make sure Jen and I saw and understood everything. Why can't all tour guides be this way?
• Shady McShadester -- To the man that sold us Oreos but switched them out with bad imitation knock-offs: you suck.
• Tibetan man on the bus -- He asked our friend Xian, "Are they 'Hello'?"
  
• The Italian Couple -- If it wasn't for an Italian mother and son, Jen and I might still be stuck 20 miles outside Xi'an at the most overrated and random tourist trap on the map. We thought we'd see one more sight on the way to the Xi'an airport. Little did we know that once there, we were stuck. Can we get to the airport from here? No. Could they call a taxi for us? No. However, the local shop owner would drive us to the airport for very small fee of 100 rmb. That's not a lot of money ($14), but it was the principe -- he was ripping us off big time and he and everyone around us trying to "help" knew it. Enter the Italian mother and son duo on a personal guided tour through China. Not only were they going to the airport, but they were on our same flight. Could we offer them any money to pay for the ride? It was out of the question. Grazie mille.
• Other world travelers -- whether it was the fun couple that joined us for taichi, or the couple from Alaska that shared a Yak cheese pizza with us, or the Australian couple that we ran into unexpectedly in two different cities, or the South African couple on The Great Wall tour that told me of their wonderous year-long around the world trip, traveling throws you into the midst of amazing, diverse, like-minded, interesting, fun, and nice people. It gives me hope.
  

China, The Food (Young Joe, Chow Fat)

I have to admit, I was a little nervous about what type of food I would find in China. How would I order? Do they eat dog, or is that just a stereotype? Would I be presented a plate full of squishy things with tentacles? Raw things? Pigeon? Donkey? Would I hang my head and succumb to Mickey D's? Could I last 2 weeks on Snickers and beer?

All my worry was for naught. The food was spectacular. I'm starting to realize there's a reason why people in different parts of the world eat different foods -- because they know something we don't, and that something tastes good.

A few highlights:

• Hot Pot -- Think Chinese fondue, but with water instead of oil. Take loads of thinly sliced lamb, fresh greens, mushrooms, ginger, dough, potatoes, fish balls, noodles, and tofu and cook them together in a pot of simmering water in the middle of your table. Add beer, friends, and dipping sauces, and you're guaranteed a good meal.
• Peking Duck -- We were honored to eat duck number 1,150,325,487, and we have the certificate to prove it. Since 1864, Quanjude has been serving its famous Peking (roast) duck. Order your duck, and they wheel out a silver cart and carve it for you on the spot. Duck breast, skin with fat, and head are all presented. Take a few sprigs of spring onion, dip the duck in a dark, thick, amazingly tasty sauce, and wrap it in a small rice-based tortilla. Mmm, mmm good. Bonus entertainment comes when they fill up your tea pot. Instead of a basic pour, it's more a perfectly arched jet of water.
• Street Food -- From sweet sticky rice treats to skewered lamb kabobs rolled in cumin and rosemary, you could find just about everything from a street vendor.
  
• Dumplings -- How can you go wrong? Mash up a bunch of pork, beef, tofu, shrimp, or your favorite choice of protein, add some vegetables, and wrap them in a bun and steam or pan fry to your liking. Yum.
• Donkey Pancakes -- Braised donkey in a pita pocket. Who knew?
• Red Bean This, Red Bean That -- I don't know if red beans are naturally sweet, or the Chinese just picked them to use in pastries and artificially sweeten them. But honestly, I don't really care. From red bean lattes to red bean scones, we were pleased.
  
• Home Cooked Goodness -- We were fortunate enough to stay at the Culture House in Yangshuo, home of Master Director Wei. And let me tell you, he deserves every bit of the title "Master Director". At night we sat down at a large dining table with the 8 or so other travelers staying in the same house. An older woman (perhaps Wei's mother?) would bring out heaping dish after dish until the lazy susan in the middle of the table couldn't hold anymore. The food was by far the best we had the enitre trip. Since we were in the south, the ingredients were fresh. The sauces were perfect. Jen fell in love with the dumplings. I obsessed over the stuffed peppers and ginger pork. I would go back to China simply to learn the cook's secrets. You think I'm kidding.

China, The Highlight Reel

Shortly after our trip started, Jen and I decided to keep a list of highlights and anti-highlights (memorable moments, but not in a good way).

A number of these probably won't make sense unless you've been to China or were on our trip, so feel free to ask if you'd like further explanation... (and many of these will link to photos once I have them uploaded, so you'll have to check back later)

Highlights

• Flight to China and getting bumped to business class for no apparent reason
• Personal tour guide / lifestyle consultant / food orderer: Xian
  
• Water show at Grand Goose Pagoda
• Hot Pot
• Pot Stickers
• Grandma's cookies
• Buying Chinese Rolex
• Red Lantern Hostel
• Seven Sages Hostel
• Sweet Sticky Rice
• Chinese babies' butts
• Old man Mao outfits and glasses
• Forbidden City
• The Italian couple
• Western breakfast
• Western toilets
• Eastern clean
• Terracotta Warriors
  
• "Are they 'Hello'?"
• Megaphones
• Guilin Seven Stars Park: tour guide, peacock photo, man with free tangerines, Bill Clinton podium, ink blown painting, golden rat, temple(s)
• Guilin Backpackers Inn
  
• Yangshuo
• Biking in countryside outside of Yangshuo
• Not getting followed up Half Moon trail by old ladies selling water and coke
• Master Director Wei and his Culture House
• Chinese Calligraphy, brush painting, and taichi lessons from Master Wei
• Fresh banana and lemon yogurt smoothies
• Home cooked Culture House food
• Impressions Liu Sanjie light show, with door-to-door service and 2nd row seat while paying less than face value of ticket
• Yak meat, Yak cheese pizza, Yak cafe
• The Great Wall
• Ziplining down from The Great Wall
  
• Donkey Pancakes
• Peking Duck
• Jasmine tea
• Full body and foot massage
• The Summer Palace
• Wu-Mart
• Dried Fish
• Red bean latte, scone, and pastries
• Signs written with poor English grammar
  

Anti-Highlights

• Fake Oreo switcharoo
• Deer Park
• Last-minute flight booking
• Counterfeit 100 yuan bill
• Chinese Rolex breaking. Twice.
• Pearl Market aggressiveness
• Dried persimmons
• Flight delay and cancellation
  
• Mr. Bond coffee
• The bus ride to The Great Wall
  
• Flight back home in economy where nothing worked (no movie, no dimming of lights, lack of food selection)
• Being hassled everywhere to buy cheap crap
  

China is Great, but Doesn't Like Blogger

I just returned from a two week trip through China. I had hoped to blog a little bit along the way, but remembered once I sat down at the computer that China blocks the major blog sites.

It's difficult to sum up a trip to a (new-to-me) foreign country that's not a part of the Western world. You'll have to bear with me as I collect my thoughts (and photos) into a hopefully coherent summary.

2008: The Year of Adventure; Or: The Year I Blew All My Savings

I don't know what's gotten into me.

At the end of February I am going dog sledding for 4 days out in the Boundary Waters.

In March I'm going to China for 2 full weeks.

Cheers to a year full of adventure.